Charleston
Date: 21/09/12
Mission: Assessment practice
Crag: http://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/westland/charleston
Crew: First year tech
Weather: Fine with a few showers
Plot: Practiced anchor building and did 4 or 5 climbs around Sunset rib.
Broken at Bullock
Date: 14/09/12
Mission: Cure the climbing bug at Punakaiki and Bullock Creek
Crag: http://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/westland/bullock-creek/hanging-gardens /http://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/westland/punakaiki-valley
Crew: Ari and I
Weather: Fine and overcast
Plot: Hit Pune for the afternoon. Did two 17's on Scratch Wall? Then got Honour Among Thieves (17) on Flight Control Wall followed by a 20 on another section. Then moved to Bullock Creek. Decided to try Where the Weka Was (21/22) at Hanging Gardens but after clipping the first bolt I fell and hurt my ankle on impact with the wall which concluded the climbing for the day
Bullock Creek Before Rain
Date: 01/09/12
Mission: Make the most of the dry weather
Crag: http://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/westland/bullock-creek
Crew: Ari, Teddy, Jake and I.
Weather: Overcast becoming drizzly and rain by 2pm
Plot: After our week on Temple Basin mountaineering we squeezed some climbing in before another classic frontal system hit the Coast. Great morning in new environs. Completed Opportunivore (18) and Bush Chick (17) at Hanging Gardens. Then we moved to The Arboretum for 2 more climbs that were quite dirty but also fun.
Froggatt Edge
Date: 10/11/08/2012
Mission: Get to a crag!
Crag:http://www.climb.co.nz/places/wharepapa/Wharepap-Climbing.htm
Crew: Jacob Willett and I.
Weather: Fine with cloudy spells
Plot: Keen to hit a North Island crag we spent two days at Froggat Edge near Te Awamutu. It's a great spot with awesome ignimbrite rock that has a lot of sharp pockets providing a different style again from what I'm used to. We did 17 climbs over 2 days with the highlight being Terra Incognito (18), 25 metres high. Good to be back climbing and if it wasn't for the weather I'd still be there.
Brooding Castle
Date: 21/09/12
Mission: Assessment practice
Crag: http://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/westland/charleston
Crew: First year tech
Weather: Fine with a few showers
Plot: Practiced anchor building and did 4 or 5 climbs around Sunset rib.
Broken at Bullock
Date: 14/09/12
Mission: Cure the climbing bug at Punakaiki and Bullock Creek
Crag: http://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/westland/bullock-creek/hanging-gardens /http://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/westland/punakaiki-valley
Crew: Ari and I
Weather: Fine and overcast
Plot: Hit Pune for the afternoon. Did two 17's on Scratch Wall? Then got Honour Among Thieves (17) on Flight Control Wall followed by a 20 on another section. Then moved to Bullock Creek. Decided to try Where the Weka Was (21/22) at Hanging Gardens but after clipping the first bolt I fell and hurt my ankle on impact with the wall which concluded the climbing for the day
Bullock Creek Before Rain
Date: 01/09/12
Mission: Make the most of the dry weather
Crag: http://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/westland/bullock-creek
Crew: Ari, Teddy, Jake and I.
Weather: Overcast becoming drizzly and rain by 2pm
Plot: After our week on Temple Basin mountaineering we squeezed some climbing in before another classic frontal system hit the Coast. Great morning in new environs. Completed Opportunivore (18) and Bush Chick (17) at Hanging Gardens. Then we moved to The Arboretum for 2 more climbs that were quite dirty but also fun.
Froggatt Edge
Date: 10/11/08/2012
Mission: Get to a crag!
Crag:http://www.climb.co.nz/places/wharepapa/Wharepap-Climbing.htm
Crew: Jacob Willett and I.
Weather: Fine with cloudy spells
Plot: Keen to hit a North Island crag we spent two days at Froggat Edge near Te Awamutu. It's a great spot with awesome ignimbrite rock that has a lot of sharp pockets providing a different style again from what I'm used to. We did 17 climbs over 2 days with the highlight being Terra Incognito (18), 25 metres high. Good to be back climbing and if it wasn't for the weather I'd still be there.
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| Froggatt |
Brooding Castle
Date: 27/05/2012
Mission: Castle Hill
Crag Info: http://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/inland-canterbury/castle-hill-basin/castle-hill-kura-tawhiti
Crew: Ari, Teddy, Tim and I
Weather: Overcast and cool
Plot: We initially wanted a weekend at Castle Hill but a grim forecast limited us to Saturday - still worth it. Highlights were Teddy's lead on a sketchy 21, followed by us toproping it. Then came the epic. We found Heretic, a climb graded 20 with one gear placement needed. After making the first move I tied in and placed my first ever bit of gear - bomber of course. Then climbed a bit higher, got scared and came down to place another piece - then climbed up again and somehow unclippped the 2nd placement, but decided to get the hell out of there anyway and finished the climb - somehow!
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| Teddy on the 1st move of Heretic (20). Also my first trad climb. |
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| Ari sussing Twin Arete (V2) |
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| Ari high up on the 21 |
Charleston in the Sun
Date: 05/05/12
Mission: Charleston Sea Cliffs
Crag Info http://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/westland/charleston
Crew: Ari, Eckies, Luke, Adrian, Lenny, Teddy, Jake, Me
Weather: Splendid
Plot: With a big crew we went to Charleston on a stunning West Coast Saturday, trying to ignore the pumping surf at Rapahoe. We did some top-roping and anchor set-ups to refresh our memories. Was good to see the place in the sun after 3 days of misery during our tech week.
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| Lenny on Sunset Rib. Photo: Ari Kingan |
Long Beach Lazy Sunday
Date: 22/04/2012
Mission: Long Beach Lazy Sunday
Crag Info: http://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/dunedin/otago-pennisula/long-beach
Crew: Ari, Anna, Jack, Kelly, I
Weather: Fine
Plot: While in Dunedin we thought we'd check out the local climbing scene and give my sister an intro lesson to climbing. Turns out to be epic. The Long Beach crag is, as the name suggests, on the beach. It's like Charleston with sand. Lots of trad around but we found some good beginner/intermediate sport climbing, which made for a nice few hours in the sun. Will definitely be back for more.
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| A young Kelly Henderson on his first climb after a few years off. |
Wanaka Splendour
Date: 17/04/2012 - 20/04/2012
Mission: Wanaka Workout
Crag Info: Wanaka
Crew: Ari and I
Weather: Clear hot days and chilly nights. BomberPlot: We hit up Wanaka crags (Roadside, Riverside, Bakehouse, Tombstone, Tiny Town, Kai Whaka Pai) for four days of "That's Gold" climbing. Magic weather and no people meant lots of climbing and basking in the sun. Got in about 10 climbs each day, all in the 16-19 range. After adjusting from the different style at Payne's Ford we got right into it and climaxed with my 1st pure onsight lead of Split Decision (19) at Kai Wjaka Pai. Highlights included morning session at Tombstone and the Bakehouse crag.
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| Tombstone sent. |
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| First 19 |
Golden Bay Refresher
Date: 08/04/12; 12/04/12; 13/04/12
Mission: Golden Bay 1st week holiday
Crag Info: http://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson/golden-bay/paynes-ford
Crew: Ari and I.
Weather: Fine
Plot: Managed a few days at Payne's. Finally got my 1st 19, Hula Yula, so was pretty happy. Spent one afternoon at Seagrass Wall at Pohara.
Crew: Ari and I.
Weather: Fine
Plot: Managed a few days at Payne's. Finally got my 1st 19, Hula Yula, so was pretty happy. Spent one afternoon at Seagrass Wall at Pohara.
Punakaiki Glory
Date: 25/03/12
Mission: Punakaiki
Crew: Ari, Tui, Lenny, Tipper, Rob
Weather: Glorious
Plot: Sunny arvo so we drove up the coast to the newly developing Punakaiki crag. A few nice 16-18 climbs on Weka Wall and a little project further along on Flight Control Wall.
Weather: Glorious
Plot: Sunny arvo so we drove up the coast to the newly developing Punakaiki crag. A few nice 16-18 climbs on Weka Wall and a little project further along on Flight Control Wall.
Payne's Ford Sport Climbing Week
Date: 12 - 16/03/2012
Date: 12 - 16/03/2012
Skills: Leading sport, making and removing anchors.
Crew: Ari, Corey, Kristin, Julia, Rhys, Hugasm, Jono, Zenzi and I
Instructors: Paula Roberts, Dave Williams, Heidi Godfrey
Weather: Fine and sunny all week.
Weather: Fine and sunny all week.
Plot: Our 2nd week of climbing saw us hit Golden Bay for a week of climbing at Payne's Ford, one of the top sport crags in New Zealand. We stayed at the infamous HangDog campground and basked in the climbing, food and weather of 'the Bay'.
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| Me on Temples of Stone (3 star) |
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| Sea Cliffs at Pohara |
Charleston Sea Cliffs Trad and Anchor Systems
Date: 22 - 24/02/12
Date: 22 - 24/02/12
Mission: Charleston Sea Cliffs
Crag Info: Gneiss and granite. Mostly trad with some sport. Good variety of cracks, faces and overhangs.
Crew: Group 1
Instructors: Keith Riley, Zak Shaw, Dave Wlliams, Heidi Godfrey
Weather: Shite - rained on and off all 3 days.
Plot: We hit Charleston for our first mission of the year. Placing natural protection using cams and nuts, setting up "bomber" achors, abseiling, prussacking up/down a rope.Training crags were Sunset Rib and Usher's Rock. Conditions were pretty atrocious for climbing, but with blowhole surging and some big waves pounding the cliffs, the swell provided an exciting climbing backdrop.
Plot: We hit Charleston for our first mission of the year. Placing natural protection using cams and nuts, setting up "bomber" achors, abseiling, prussacking up/down a rope.Training crags were Sunset Rib and Usher's Rock. Conditions were pretty atrocious for climbing, but with blowhole surging and some big waves pounding the cliffs, the swell provided an exciting climbing backdrop.
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